Nervii photos from Andy
Still don't know if this will work. I tried doing it according to instructions but the "insert image" button keeps saying that the url codes are invalid! Have spent way too much time on this so if it doesn't work you'll have to wait to see them when they get there. Will post them tomorrow.
Never mind. The images were slow to upload on the site so I've removed them . . .
Here are Andy's photos- well done!
They're FRICCCCCIN" BEEAUUTIFFULL!!!!
Send these to the front rank!
NIVEN
They do look AWESOME! I havent painted plaid since I painted highlanders for Sword and the Flame twenty or so years ago......... I wonder if I can still pull it off?
Hi, Mark. A guy I know who paints model vehicles all the time swears by the fine point sharpie for detail work. It might be good on plaids too!
Speaking of fine point pens . . . That's what I used for the
tattoos and if you're VERY careful it works. However, real ink wants
nothing more than to BLEED. Thus, I had to paint over some of the tats
because they turned into blobs. And as you might guess, once the ink is
on it's VERY difficult to cover. So my best advice is to try it on a
fig you don't care about and try to find a pen that has an excellently
regulated flow. Hope this helps some of you. I'll keep experimenting on
future figs ;) Andy
Another Future hint, or two! If your Sharpie ink bleeds into the paint over which it has been applied, lay down a coat of dilute Future before doing the pen work. If your Sharpie ink goes bananas after being sprayed with Dullcote, lay down a coat of dilute Future *over* the ink (it should not affect it) and then spray with Dullcote.
Be advised, some people (aircraft modellers) report that using Future over Sharpies can make the ink run. I haven't experienced that, but do a test to be safe. I suspect that those reporting problems are not letting the ink dry completely.
Allen
Hey all;
I have had some limited success with GEL pens. Particularly for white lines, note that its really hard to use them on painted surfaces if the surface is at all glossy. I find that it works best on flat colors; and you have to be real careful not to smudge it as it takes several seconds to dry - but once it does dull coats don't seem to effect it in any way.
I'm not sure how it would work on the curved surfaces, since those pens are ball point it might be really difficult to keep the ink flowing.
For me it works best for flag details, but might work really well for tartans and such.
Andy - NIce minis, that will definitely make for an elite war-band.
Tim
Allen - When you say to use Future do you mean the floor wax? I thought of covering them with matte sealer first but thought I'd try it without first - silly me!!! Anyway - thanks for the tip, I'm off to find Sharpies . . .
Thanks Tim - haven't done tattoos since painting the Amer-Indians for Henry and I did those with paint so this was new for me. I wonder if colored inks would be a good way to go with plaids? Perhaps a combination of gel pens and ink? I'll keep it in mind for the next time.
Meanwhile I'm working on a series of 15mm buildings. As soon as I get it sussed out I'll send a photo or two for opinions. Andy
Andy,
Please do post pictures of the buildings. I've only done a few buidlings and I haven't been too thrilled with the results.
Ken
Allen - When you say to use Future do you mean the floor wax? I thought of covering them with matte sealer first but thought I'd try it without first - silly me!!! Anyway - thanks for the tip, I'm off to find Sharpies . . .
-tsoldier2
Yep, currently sold as "Pledge with Future Shine":
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
It's not a wax, though. Just think of it as a really inexpensive gloss acrylic coating. The Swanny's Web page mainly addresses its use in plastic modelling. But I use it at several steps in painting wargame figures. Diluted, it's an excellent carrier for an ink wash (you can find it described lots of places on line as "Future Wash" or "Magic Wash"; not the same as "Magic Dip", which is using tinted poly wood finish). I use it to spot gloss shields and vehicles before applying transfers; it makes them set down batter, and reduces "silvering". And I use it for a top protective coat before a final shot of Dullcote: a lot less expensive than multiple coats of Testor's. And it's a cheap way to touch up things that *should* be glossy after the Dullcote: spearpoints, that sort of thing--although usually I hit bayonets, sabers, helmets and such with a final metallic coat of paint and just know I'll have to touch them up again at some point.
I haven't painted without Future for years, now.
Allen
Hey Allen - Thanks, I've actually got some left from the floor I finished recently . . .
Andy
They've arrived! Here is a photo of Andy's warband. The tribes are assembling!
Dean - NICE PHOTOS - I'll have to work on getting better pictures out of my camera! Anyway - just caught the "Wonderful Mr. Brown" thread . . . Nothing like 600 troops to make you feel like a slacker. How many unpainted Nervii do you have left? I MAY do some more for you if there's time? Andy
Not at all! This project is going to be completed one warband and cohort at a time. that said...if you are interested in another, I have a group of celts and a cohort of Romans...
OK Dean - send another band of Nervii - assembled please! Andy
OK Dean - send another band of Nervii - assembled please! Andy
-tsoldier2
Hi, Andy.
Will do- thanks!
